Picture + Paragraph

View from Cerro Guanaco Summit, Tierra del Fuego National Park      Getting to Ushuaia was hard work. I took a train from Valencia to Madrid and stopped over for the night. Then flew from Madrid to Buenos Aires, where I had to traverse the city to get from Ezeiza to Aeroparque for the flight down to El Fin del Mundo. Two sentences in a blog post, but 48 gruelling hours in real life! It was a relief to arrive, get showered, change clothes, and go out to eat. Close to my accommodation was Pizza Hot  which did excellent empanadas, and had a wide selection of the locally produced Beagle and Cape Horn beers . Fed and watered I went to get some much needed rest. I'd wanted to visit Patagonia for many years, but the sad truth is by the time I actually got there I was less than enthusiastic about the whole trip. I get to see my closest friend once a year at most, and back in spring we'd made plans for him to visit Spain during the summer. For that reason I'd decided to spend the

Diez Vistas, British Columbia Canada      Around the same time I moved to Málaga, my friend (Will) moved to Vancouver. He'd invited me over on numerous occasions, and with September off work for the summer holidays I finally accepted. The first hike we did was Diez Vistas  (named after its ten views). The walk was nice, but Bear Aware  noticeboards and caution signs are ubiquitous in Canada, and they made it difficult for me to relax in the forest sections. I felt sure I was being stalked and much preferred the open areas with less oppurtunity for a wily bear to conceal itself. The following weeks were full of activities, but there were a few things I particularly enjoyed. Watching too many  Ray Mears videos on YouTube had left me wanting to catch something, kill it and grill it. A successful fishing trip on the Chilliwack River (mostly) satisfied the urge. I did catch a salmon and even helped with the cooking, but it was Will who killed and cleaned it. Next I wanted to see Banf

View of the Pyrenees from Pic de Noucreus My interest in Barcelona and the Pyrenees came about through reading three books: both Orwell and Lee wrote about their personal experiences of the Spanish Civil War, whilst Zafon delivers a fictional mystery set in the city's postwar streetscapes. I had planned to spend a couple of days visiting the Gaudi Buildings  followed by a few days hiking in the mountains. The Segrada Família was my first stop and, although impressive, the sheer number of people jostling to get the best positions for photos was off-putting . Unfortunately it was a similar scene at most of the popular attractions and I was soon ready for the tranquility of Vall de Núria . I took a train from Barcelona to Ribes de Fresser then the Rack Railway into the valley (the only way it can be accessed). The line is an amazing feat of engineering and the ride has great views of chasms, forests, and rivers. The following afternoon I set off to hike the Noucreus trail , which

The Royal Danish Playhouse, Copenhagen Denmark An aerial photograph of Øresund Bridge put Denmark on my radar, and as was the tradition at the time my girlfriend and I booked a Christmas vacation. Based in Copenhagen Island  we were a few kilometres from the centre, but the room was great. In the mornings and evenings the underfloor heating in the bathroom was especially appreciated (temperatures outside were often close to zero degrees). The city itself was perpetually overcast, and I don't recall seeing sunshine during the entire stay. Yet despite the bitterly cold conditions groups of locals could regularly be seen donning Speedos and caps for a swim in the harbour! We spent several days exploring, including a visit to the (in)famous Freetown Christiana . Whilst I can imagine it being a blast back in its hippy commune days, the open drug dealing and sleazy atmosphere gave me the impression it's not somewhere you'd like to be at night. Eventually we did cross the Øresund

Amarelo da Carris, Lisbon Portugal      To save money I took the bus from Málaga to Lisbon via Sevilla. It was an eleven hour trip in total and by the halfway point I wished I'd forked out the extra few euros for a flight. Arriving in the early evening, the first bar I discovered was Pens ão Amor . With its decadent vintage decor it's an interesting, sumptuous setting. The risqué artwork in the R. Nova do Carvalho entrance hints at the neighbourhood's colourful history and might even dissuade the fainthearted from entering. In the morning I rode the Gloria Funicular up into the Bairro Alto to take in the views from Miradouro de são Pedro de Alcântara , and spent the next couple of days wandering through the historical centre seeing the hotspots. To get a better feel for the wider area I walked along the Tagus out to Jerónimos Monastery , passing under the Ponte 25 de Abril en route. Although the outside of the monastery was gorgeous, I didn't get to see the inside be

Postdamer Platz, Berlin Germany        This was the first time I'd travelled during the Christmas period. I was dead against the idea given that prices are extortionate, but my girlfriend at the time (and still close friend) convinced me. It even became our tradition. We stayed in Alexanderplatz  at the H4 . It's well connected, has a great view of the nearby TV Tower , and most importantly, serves a good breakfast. For me Berlin had no immediately striking features, everything was either concrete or under construction. But as the days progressed the city grew on me. I particularly enjoyed Postdamer Platz  where you can take the, "fastest elevator in Europe," for excellent views from Panoramapunkt  (the Germans seemed to obsess about the speed of their elevators). I also enjoyed the Reischtag  with its showpiece glass dome. Our intention was to celebrate New Year's Eve close to Brandenburg Gate , and to see the fireworks display in the nearby park. However, we set

Sierra Nevada, Granada Spain I moved to the Costa del Sol  for sunny weather and sandy beaches, but Spain was also the first place I ever went snowboarding. The nearby Sierra Nevada mountain range offers great winter sports, and hiking during the summer season. I spent five days in the Albergue Inturjoven , and started each day with a two hour introductory class. Within the first hour of the first class, a member of the group fell backwards onto the compacted snow with his arms outstretched hoping to break the fall. What he actually broke was his wrist! He had to be stretchered off the mountain by snowmobile. My attitude towards the sport became extremely cautious from then on, and I never did take it up as a regular hobby. Later in the year I visited Gibraltar. Ever since reading Laurie Lee's description of standing on the Rock  and looking out at the continent of Africa, I'd wanted to do the same. After an English breakfast in the town (the first I'd had in some time),

Plaza de Torros, Madrid Spain     Through 2012 and 2013 I was busy getting on with the business end of my degree. Then immediately after graduating I did my CertTESOL. Newly qualified and with itchy feet, I replied to a Tweet advertising a teaching position in Madrid. During that first visit I didn't have a lot of free time because I was completing in-house training, but I did see some of the main attractions and get a feel for a few of the city's characteristically distinctive neighbourhoods. I stayed in  Chueca , which was an interesting introduction and a good place to be based. At the first opportunity I visited the Museo Reina Sofia , as I'd wanted to see Picasso's Guernica  for a while. It didn't disappoint (unlike the Mona Lisa). I also visited Gran via ,  Puerta del Sol , and the Gate of Europe to name a few places. Although I was only there for three weeks, and spent most of that time working, I've been back on several occasions since and got to know t

Council Square, Braşov Romania    With its vampire and gothic horror associations deeply rooted in popular culture, Transylvania has always fascinated me. As I was more or less in the area I set off for a look around. To get there I took a train back through Hungary, which was absolutely exhausting. Initially this was because I shared a carriage with a group of primary school children heading out on an excursion (their teachers and classmates occupied several other carriages). They where yapping excitedly, hungrily swapping sweaty handfuls of sweets and crisps, and relentlessly trying to communicate information about their destination to me as well as enquiring about my own using their nascent broken English. Later, when the kids had disembarked, and shortly after crossing the border into Romania, I attracted the attention of a disreputable looking group of youths whose questions about my itinerary were much less welcome. With my brand name clothing and backpack, I stood out like a sor

Lake Bled, Slovenia From Budapest I took the train to Slovenia's capital, Ljubljana . It's a small city full of green spaces and absolutely plastered with graffiti . After a couple of nights I moved on to the tiny village of Zirovnica, perfectly situated for visiting the nearby resort town of Bled but without the crowds. The country is known for being a mountain hiking paradise, and I climbed two during my stay. The first was Stol , which at 2,236 metres stands imposingly looking over Lake Bled and the surrounding area. It took me three attempts to reach the summit! I got lost wandering around in the forest looking for the trail's starting point on my first try, but returned the next day determined to succeed. This time I was accompanied by two Dutch siblings I had met in the hostel. We were making good progress until, after we'd rested at a plateau to admire the stunning views towards the  Julian Alps , the path became considerably steeper and the sister decided to tu

Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest Hungary I had finally finished my first year of university, and found myself with some weeks available for travel during the summer break. Research into the cost of flights and accommodation showed Eastern Europe to be quite affordable so I went on a tour. It began in Hungary's capital city, Budapest. I was impressed from the moment I arrived. The Danube cuts through the city separating the districts of Buda and Pest, and is criss-crossed by a number of bridges so distinct in character they serve as perfect landmarks for navigating. I happened to be there during the Saint Stephen's Day celebrations, and saw the most amazing fireworks display I've ever seen in my life. Thousands of people were gathered on both banks of the river, all the way from Chain Bridge to Liberty Bridge. The atmosphere was electric. Explosions from the fireworks could be felt in your chest, and massive booms echoed around city sending flocks of birds fleeing from th

Edale - Derbyshire England Although I didn't travel abroad in 2010, I did gain a greater appreciation of the gorgeous countryside that's right on my doorstep. A good friend I'd made whilst in New Zealand had returned home soon after me. He's from Derbyshire, and whenever I wanted a break from my studies I'd visit him to go for hikes in the area. We'd normally meet up at his father's house in Bonsall  the afternoon before a trek, and enjoy a few beers whilst choosing our destination and planning the route. In the mornings packed lunches were prepared, daypacks were stowed, and we'd set off tramping around the district's rural areas. I was introduced to the picturesque village of  Edale  which, with its nearby rolling hills and weather-battered rock formations, became one of my favourite spots in England. Another choice attraction is  Chatsworth House in the Derbyshire Dales, home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire and a great place for a picnic. I

The White Terraces of Pamukkale, Denizli Turkey At the end of a year of studying I was exhausted, but had achieved my initial goal of two formal qualifications. I decided to reward myself with a holiday. Whilst in Auckland I occasionally ate at a Turkish kebab house which had a huge picture of Pamukkale hanging behind the counter. That's what inspired me to visit. I stayed in the resort town of  Ölüdeniz  on the south coast. Home to a beautiful blue lagoon, the first few days were spent floating on a lilo, taking in the sun and replenishing myself by means of good food and copious amounts of drink. Fully revived I joined a bus tour out to Pamukkale. The journey was a few hours long, and we stopped to refuel at about the halfway point. I remember it clearly because the attendant was smoking a cigarette as he filled the tank, making me quite nervous! The site itself features a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre and baths  overlooking the snow-white terraces which fall into the

Mount Ngauruhoe. Tongariro National Park My second visit to New Zealand was a completely different experience. It wasn't necessary to rush around the country, because I'd already seen so much of it and I now had the luxury of time. I settled into Auckland and got an office job, which enabled me to rent a small apartment with great views over Rangitoto Volcano and Waiheke Island . I would work Monday to Friday and go on road trips at the weekends and during vacations. It was a nice life, and for my birthday that year I did the Tongariro Alpine Crossing . It's known for being the best one day hike in the country, and a famous feature is the Emerald Pools towards the end of the route. By the time we got there the weather had closed in and it was so foggy you couldn't see much, although the sun did come out once the pools were long behind us. That's alpine conditions for you! Back in the office a new member joined the team, and once we got chatting he explained t

St. Barbara's Church. Kutná Hora I briefly returned to Auckland to spend a day with Christine and her family before flying back to Australia. It was almost time to go home, and on my final day in Melbourne I noticed an exhibition called Bodies . I knew of it because the creator, Dr Gunther Von Hagens, had attracted huge media attention with his controversial public autopsy . Unfortunately I hadn't got time to go because I had a flight to catch. After an amazing year of travelling I landed back in England eager to tell my friends of the things I'd seen and done, but also downhearted that my adventure was at an end. I'd only been back for a couple of weeks when overwhelming feelings of boredom spurred me into action. My idea was to buy the cheapest international flight I could find, regardless of the destination. That's how I ended up in Prague. And the first thing that I came across when exploring was the Bodies exhibition! True serendipity. The displays were

Queenstown viewed from Bob's Peak Freshly shod and wearing warm dry socks I headed to Wanaka. Nestled amongst the Southern Alps and with a pristine lake it's an idyllic location. I passed a peaceful few days walking along the extensive trails , and also visited Puzzling World  a nearby maze attraction where I first discovered Tantrix . Next stop Queenstown. Often described as The Adventure Capital of the World  due to the sheer variety of activities you can do, I was spoilt for choice upon arrival. Then someone dropped out of their upcoming skydive and, although it's not an activity that's ever been at the top of my wish list, I decided to take their place. However, as we were getting kitted out the pilot radioed to say the weather was changing and there would be no more jumps that day. In all honesty I was more relieved than disappointed. But I did do the popular Ledge bungee jump before leaving, albeit grudgingly and mostly down to peer pressure. Everyone else

Franz Josef Glacier. Westland Tai Poutini National Park I flew into Christchurch, the largest city in New Zealand's South Island. It has distinctive English heritage, which is one of the things I love about the country in general. In places it looks and feels very similar to England (the language, verdant countryside, and expressways that are like the UK dual carriageways for example), but then you come across a volcano, mountain, or huge Pouwhenua carving and quickly remember you're on the other side of the planet. I only stayed for a couple of days, before buying a Kiwi Experience pass and taking the coach to Kaikoura . It's a gorgeous town where the Seaward Kaikoura Range forms a stunning backdrop. It's famed for its marine wildlife amongst other things, and I went on a whale-watching boat trip during which I saw sperm whales, dolphins, seals, albatrosses and even a humpback! We made stops at Blenheim, Picton, Nelson, Westport and Greymouth before reaching Fra

Central Business District (CBD). Auckland New Zealand It was fantastic to arrive in a new country and be met by a familiar face. My friend (Christine) lived in the suburb of Howick and her family were extremely welcoming. Christine and I went on many road trips together around the North Island during the following two weeks. From Auckland you can drive to some amazing volcanic, black sand beaches and the nearby  Waitakere Ranges Park  is one of my favourite locations on the planet. I have a special affinity for  Karekare  as it's somewhere I went through a period of reflection and made decisions that changed the direction of my life. Apart from being picturesque, the charm is that it never gets overcrowded and you can often roam large expanses of beach alone. Another memorable location is Waitomo Glowworm Caves  which I'd heard about from a school friend many years before I finally got the chance to go. Quiet is a requisite of the cave tours because loud noise can disturb

A section of The Great Ocean Road. Southern Australia. From Alice Springs I flew to Adelaide on the south coast, and after the remote interior it was nice to be close to the ocean again. In this area I saw my first drive-through bottle shop . These are liquor stores where you don't even have to get out of your car! Seems like a bizarre idea to me, given that drinking and driving go together like oil and water. Adelaide is my favourite city in Australia after Melbourne. It's easy to navigate, has good beaches, and is close to the Barossa Valley wine region. A group in the hostel were planning to hire a car and drive out to the Wine Trail, which involves visiting a number of wineries and sampling their produce (some poor fool had volunteered to be the designated driver of course). The group included a girl from New Zealand, and the morning we were due to set off she asked me if I was ready. I replied that I needed a minute to iron my shorts, which she found hilarious an

Kata Tjuta aka The Olgas In Alice Springs social problems like alcohol abuse and homelessness amongst the indigenous population are more clearly visible than in many other places. The town has had its share of  bad publicity  and acquired a bit of a reputation. However, if you apply a little common sense and don't do things like stop to stare and take photos you can move about in peace. Another British traveller arrived at the same time as me and we hung out for a few days. We decided to join a small group hiring a guide and mini-bus for a four day trip out to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.  The scale of the Outback is immense, especially when you come from a relatively small island like Great Britain. It was the first time I ever saw a road so long and straight that it stretched all the way to the horizon. Periodically there were huge Black-breasted Buzzards at the roadside dining on carrion and roadkill from the  road trains  and other traffic. To my surprise there were a